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LINKS IN THE 1890s
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DIRLETON VILLAGE
and FIRDA ISLAND

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Archerfield - East Lothian
Course Architect   Estate History   Views   Layout
Muirfield  - Gullane  - North Berwick East  - Dunbar  - North Berwick West  - Musselburgh

Renaissance Club
Archerfield Estate, Dirleton, EH39 5HS
Director of Golf: Stewart Smith

Tel. 01620 850 901
e-mail: stewart@trcaa.com

[Archerfield]
Renaissance at Archerfield - May 2006
© Digitalsport UK

[14th on West Links]
Archaeological Open Day - 18th June 2006 © Digitalsport UK

  Renaissance Club
at Archerfield

By Douglas Seaton
Archerfield Factfile

ARCHERFIELD is situated beside the historic village of Dirleton, three miles from North Berwick and forty minutes drive from Edinburgh. To the north, the sandy shores of the Firth of Forth and to the west, the famous Muirfield links, home to the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers.

The Renaissance Club have leased 300 acres from Hamilton & Kinneil Ltd the family trust set up by the landowner, Angus Douglas Hamilton, 15th Duke of Hamilton.

The championship golf course was opened in April 2008. The par-71, 7,435-yard course laid out by American designer Tom Doak will also feature a state-of-the-art clubhouse and 100 lodge rooms. Despite the £50,00 price tag for membership and the £ 1,700 annual fees the club has so far attracted a lot of interest.

The property of the Renaissance Club lies to the west of the estate while on the east Caledonian Heritable Ltd have developed Archerfield Links Golf Club, a private members club with two golf courses. The Duke and Duchess of Hamilton have retained their residence at the Home Farm on the southern boundary of the property. The Duke inherited the estate in 1973 from his father who purchased it ten years earlier.

Visit Dirleton Castle and the 17th century Parish Kirk.

Approximately 84 acres of trees have been cleared to open up the site. This is the only portion of the historic Archerfield Estate to retain its natural windswept sand dunes. The coastal stretch of the estate has been protected for centuries by a dense pine forest and the natural contours, untouched by the plough have required little earth moving.

Archerfield was the site of a golf course in the 1890s where among others Willie Park Jnr., Ben Sayers and Harold Hilton played.

When Tom Doak was asked about the new course he said "The tough thing is that I have built a couple of true links, and the people who are familiar with those assume that this course will be the same. It won't. It isn't really that kind of land. We'll have links conditions. It's windy here, and the course will play firm and fast. But there are trees, which will surprise some people. It's a hybrid really."

The Renaissance Club at Archerfield is a UK limited liability partnership formed in 2005 by Hamilton and Kinneil (Archerfield) Ltd. The project is being financed by TRCAA owned by two entrepreneurial businessmen, Gerald S. Sarvadi and Derek A. Siewert, both from Jacksonvile, Florida.

There is significant historical interest in Archerfield Estate with a Bronze Age burial cairn 3,500 years-old; the site of a 12th century castle at Elbotle Ridge where David 1 and William IV stayed and the remains of an 11th century mediaeval village. Eldbotle means 'old place' and it was thought that monks lived there until the village was submerged by sandstorms in the 16th century.

In May 2006, archaeologists discovered a number of rectangular clay-boned stone buildings in the area of the new 17th fairway on the Renaissance course. Some of the buildings were very substantial in size and although a forest plantation had been planted on top of them, many of them have survived exceptionally well with some still standing a few feet high.

Historic maps from as far back as the 16th century indicate the presence of the medieval village of Eldbotle within the Archerfield Estate but further to the north-east than this site. This latest find could be an extension of Edbotle or could be a separate distinct site. There was also a horse burial discovered and numerous bones and oyster shells.

[Fidra Island]
Fidra Island, and the hills of Fife in the background © Digitalsport UK

The Archerfield Renaissance course meanders through the pine trees towards the sandunes and Firth of Forth coastline. From this point Fidra Island can be seen, the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson's famous book 'Treasure Island' with 'Spy-glass Hill' modelled on Yellowcraig on the mainland opposite. The author spent many summers at North Berwick and was familiar with this area where he also placed his characters David Balfour and Alan Breck when they reached the coast in his novel 'Catriona'. A map of Treasure Island included in the first edition has the familiar horseshoe outline of Fidra. Stevenson landed several times on the island to witness the progess in the construction of the lighthouse, built by his grandfather's engineering company in 1885 and automated in 1970.

The original golf course at Archerfield was laid out in 1869. It was a private course played only by Archerfield Golf Club, the tenants of the mansion house, their guests and golfers of fame and repute who were given the authority to use the links. Names such as Robert Maxwell, Freddie Tait, Harold Hilton and Johnny Laidlay among the amateurs and Ben Sayers Sen., Jack White and Willie Park Jnr. among the professionals found the course an ideal retreat from the congestion of Gullane and the West Links at North Berwick.

As a special consideration the staff of Archerfield and their families were also allowed to golf on the course. The Watt brothers, William, David, John, Robert and James learned to play the game on Dirleton village green and on the course at Archerfield where their father was the estate forester. Willie and David were Scottish Professional Champions in 1912 and 1914. Willie was appointed pro at Turnhouse and David Watt, the first left-handed player to win a championship was professional at Mortonhall.

For many years the course at Archerfield consisted of 13 holes until James Law, tenant of Archerfield House for 35 summers and owner of the Scotsman newspaper extended the course to 18 holes with the advice of Ben Sayers. In 1909, Law persuaded Willie Watt to return to Archerfield and look after the course. It was here Willie was golf tutor to Herbert Asquith and as a reward, Willie and his family were invited to Downing Street to have tea with the Prime Minister. In 1908 Winston Churchill was appointed First Lord Of The Admirality by Asquith at Archerfield House.

"Archerfield greenkeeper Peter Lees, was in great demand constructing courses in America with Albert Tillinghast and Charles B. Macdonald."

James Watt served his apprenticeship with Willie Park & Son before establishing his own successful clubmaking business in North Berwick. Jack White held the course record at Archerfield for many years with a 69. Jack was educated at Dirleton School and apprenticed as a club maker under Tom Dunn at North Berwick. In 1899 Freddie Tait scored 63 to set a new amateur record which was never beaten. Tait was Amateur Champion in 1896 and 1898. Jack White went on to win the 1904 Open Championship and presented the driver he had used to his Dirleton Parish Church Sunday School teacher.

Thomas Durie and Peter Lees apprenticed as greenkeepers at Archerfield before Lees moved to Barnton and Durie was appointed head greenkeeper at Mortonhall in 1892. Peter Lees was persuaded to move to Mid-Surrey Golf Club in 1911, where he introduced several grass bunkers to break up the flat appearance of the course. This was so successful that the grass bunkers were enlarged to create the 'humps and hollows' which looked so natural. This was the making of Peter Lees's reputation and he emigrated to America where he worked on numerous projects with golf course architects such as Charles B. Macdonald, Albert Tillinghast and Seth Rayner.

The course at Archerfield survived until 1940 when the land was commandeered by the Ministry of Defence. Archerfield Estate is named after the field where the archers of Edward I pitched their tents when they invaded Scotland in 1298. Archerfield Wood is called the Garden Seawood in Robert Louis Stevenson classic 'The Pavilion On The Kinks'.

Copyright © Douglas Seaton 2008, All Rights Reserved.