The present
harbour is the result of many alterations, mainly due to reconstruction following storm-damage. In June 1593 the Town Council
requested support from the Convention of Burghs to repair the harbour and this was the first of many appeals for assistance. The
north east quay covered during the construction of the former swimming pool was first mentioned in the Burgh Accounts in 1726, with
a reference to a sluice used to wash the silt out of the harbour. The south east wall was built in 1788 and the south west transverse
pier, at the outer end of the harbour was constructed in 1803 by John and James Grieve, masons in North Berwick.
Following the storm-damage in 1811 the south west pier was relaid and the original breakwater extended, forming a new pier head at
the entrance, the top of which was reached by a stair. The first pilots of the port were appointed in January 1787. These were
Peter Marr Snr., Henry Jackson, Matthew Jackson, Alex Combe, John Smith, Peter Marr Jnr. and James Kelly. The harbour-entrance is
25 ft. wide and opposite on the south west pier is a chase and crane for booms, installed in 1806 to improve the safety of the
harbour. But a report by Robert Stevenson and Sons in 1861 states that the boom contributed to the disaster of 1811 by increasing
the pressure on the south west pier which was badly damaged. The deepening of the harbour was carried out in 1804 by Messrs
Grieves and Bamber of North Berwick and again in 1862 by J. Young of Sutherland. Cut-back rock-faces can be seen under the quays
where encroaching rocks had to be removed, when the harbour was deepened.
Repairs to the harbour was a burden on the Council and to raise the finance required they proposed to sell off the island of
Craigleith. On 17th September 1814 a disposition had been executed in favour of Sir Hew Hamilton-Dalrymple who agreed to pay £400
for the Craig, by yearly instalments of £100. Originally it had been intended to dispose of the island by lottery, but this was
found to be illegal. To improve the entrance, the Northern Lights Commissioners placed a buoy on the Maidens in 1861.
During the deepening of the harbour in 1862, a serious disturbance occurred on a Saturday night, which was pay-day, when a number
of the labourers employed in the works got exceedingly noisy leading to riotous behaviour. Police constable McMillan was called to
the harbour and cautioned the men on their behaviour, which resulted in one of the Irishmen directing a knock down bow to
McMillan. This was repeated twice after the constable had regained his feet. On seeing this, Alex Russell one of the local
fishermen ran forward to assist the policeman but the navvies served Russell in the same manner as McMillan.
This proved too much for the other fishermen who had gathered and they rushed forward, resulting in hand to hand fighting lasting
for over half an hour. Shortly afterwards one of the Irishmen named Dailly was identified as the man who had struck the policeman
and was captured and lodged in jail. On Monday at the Burgh Court, James Dall the Chief Magistrate convicted Dailly and sentenced
him to pay a fine of £2 or 30 days imprisonment. His comrades paid the fine.
Associated with the harbour was a coopers yard where boats were repaired or laid up. This was approached by way of a slip in the
harbour's east corner near the Burgh stable yard which was also used to stable the local constabulary horses. Two warehouses were
built on the quay side, the present buildings occupied by East Lothian Yacht Club and the Harbour Terrace with their original
outside staircases. These buildings were used for the storage of grain, wool and potatoes for export. Later they also accommodated
a number of fishing families who had migrated from Buckhaven. Coal was transported to the town by boat from Bo'ness, the Fife
coast and Newcastle with the coalyard situated on the site of the former Sun Parlour. In 1839 it cost 14/- a ton for Scotch Great
Coal or 17/- a ton for English. Coal was very expensive and a great burden on the poor family.
The original level of the road leading to the harbour can be seen below the railings at 19-29 Victoria Road. This property
incorporating Lower Quay was constructed in 1868 by Keddie & Herriot whose joiners yard was in the Quadrant. At that time John
Herriot was a Town Councillor and the row of cottages were known as Herriot Place. The outside staircases remain but the coal
cellars underneath were removed when the road was raised and the building on the south end added. The Fisherman's Hall was built
in 1883 and the Coastguard Semaphore lookout post on the Platcock Rocks was constructed in 1889.
On the Anchor Green stands a red granite Celtic Cross, with the inscription ' Erected in memory of Catherine Watson of Glasgow,
aged 19 who drowned in the East Bay, 27th July 1889 while rescuing a drowning boy. The child was saved, the brave girl was taken.'
The memorial was designed by S. McGlashen in 1890 and crafted by Catherine Watson's fellow students at Glasgow School of Art and
surround by a decorative metal railing.
In the 18th century all fishing boats in Scotland were built as clinker, or clench design with the deck positioned about three
feet below the lowest point of the gunwale. As the hull planks, or strakes reached from the bow to stern in one piece, the length
of the boat was entirely governed by the length of the wooden strakes available, which rarely exceeded 34 feet. The boats had to
be light and small enough to be hauled to beyond the high water mark at night.
The most popular timber for the construction of the boats was 'She' Oak because it was thought to be lucky. A 'she' oak is a type
of oak tree where the female flowers grow in greater abundance than the male. Other woods such as Aspen were never used because
they were thought to be unlucky. The use of the 'she' oak gave rise to the habit of calling the boats 'she' and according to
folklore the reason why fishermen were reluctant to allow women on board a working vessel was because they thought the boat might
get jealous.
By 1848 the design had improved with a series of closely spaced timber frames on which the strakes were fastened, and this method
of construction dispensed with the need for each strake to extend from bow to stern in one continuous plank. Three boat designs
assumed prominence on the east coast during this period, the Scaffie used along the Moray Firth and the Fifie preferred by the
fishermen on the Firth of Forth. The third design was given the nickname of 'Zulu' as the first boat was launched during the Zulu
Wars of the 1880s. The Reaper was the biggest Fifie Class herring lugger at over 70 feet and weighing sixty tons it could reach
speeds of over ten knots and with it's twin mast and dripping lug sails it was a formidable vessels. When it was designed, the
Reaper was so big her development was only possible with the introduction of new steam technology to hoist the huge sails and pull
in the driftnets filled with ten tons of herring.
As the nineteenth century progressed herring became an important food for the whole of Britain and the government offered a
financial incentive to any Scottish fisherman building a boat over sixty feet. The Reaper required a crew of five and was able to
sail 200 miles in a single day. The herring was fished with drift nets that hang down from cork floats on the surface. By the late
nineteenth century the fishermen were using cotton nets which were much lighter than hemp, its predecessor. The Reaper had a lower
cabin with a coal fired stove for drying the wet clothes and cooking the meals. From about 1890 until the introduction of steam and
later petrol powered engines, the Fifie and the half-decked Zulu were the Rolls Royce of deep-sea sailing drifters.
In 1888 there were 90 men and boys working 30 fishing boats at North Berwick and by the turn of the century Canty Bay had its own
small fishing community with 31 people working on six fishing boats. The deep-sea fishing was chiefly carried out from fifty to
one hundred miles east of the Bass, where cod, ling, turbot, halibut and skate were caught. In 1862 there was only one decked
smack employed in the deep-fishing and a company was formed to construct four more boats costing £4000, the money was raised in £5
shares. This made five boats in all, four of which were always be on the fishing ground and the fifth discharging her cargo at
North Berwick.
In the 1840s John Neillans cooperage was situated on the site of the present Museum and Library in School Road. Along with his sons
John, Robert and Thomas they made thousands of barrels for the herring fishing. Barrel making was an important part of the fishing
industry. Before refrigerating, ice was scarce and expensive and the only way to preserve the herring was in a barrel cured with
brine. Thomas Neillans continued the business on the site behind the coastguard cottages known as 'Cooper's Well' into the 1860s.
In 1863, the herring fishing was carried out around the Craigleith but the herring suddenly disappeared around 1874 and were
seldom seen west of the Bass. When the herring was abundant off North Berwick, a typical evenings fishing could yield an average
of four or five crans, some boats landed nine or ten and one boat nearly twenty cran, which stood as a record for a number of
years. The prices in 1860 varied from 26 to 31 shillings per cran. The biggest haul was taken from 10th to the 18th August. At
the height of the herring fishing 7000 barrels were obtained in one week, the ordinary take was about 12,000 barrels in a season
and the boats came from Fife and the South.
The women got up early to gather the mussels for baiting the fishing lines which could take four hours. The line had a thousand
hooks and each boat had two lines. When the boats returned the wives were often assisted by single woman from other areas to gut
and box the herring, they could gut 60 or 70 a minute. The knife was so sharp they would wrap their fingers in sacking for
protection.
Most of the fishermen were in the employment of fish curers and merchants, such as John Jamieson, William Manderson, and Alex
Henderson from Anstruther to whom they had to sell all the fish they caught at a stipulated price. The fish were then sent by
rail to London, Leeds, Birmingham, and Manchester. The fish merchants in North Berwick being close to the railway line could
command better prices for their herring than other areas not connected. In 1866 the prices could reach the high level of 30/- to
50/- per cran (1 cran=3.5 cwt), while on the Caithness coast, still unserved by railway, herring of the same quality could realise
only 5/- to 20/- per cran during the same season. In former times the fishermen's wives and daughters travelled through the countryside
to sell their fish.
The inshore fishing yielded haddock, whiting, flounders, sole and brill. The herring fishing was carried out entirely by
drift-nets, the other fish were caught by lines, except that trawling was practised for sole and brill. Lobsters and crabs were
caught by means of creels and shrimps were gathered along the shore in summer. Oysters were found near the Bass but they were
dredged with difficulty.
Cod, mackerel, salmon, and trout were occasionally caught in the herring-nets and sometimes porpoises and even sharks. The
dog-fish, part of the shark family, was regarded by the fishermen as their greatest enemy, because it not only destroys the fish
but often damages their fishing gear. Bait was obtained with difficulty near North Berwick. Mussels were not found in abundance
until nearer Aberlady Bay. At North Berwick the live mussels were put till required in compartments made by loosely building up
large stones against the inner wall of the harbour, thus preventing them from being scattered and lost through their own movements
and tidal action.
In 1840, lobster fishing was carried out by two men in each boat, dressed in canvas frocks with sheepskin trousers and coarse
gloves. To catch the lobster they used a strong hoop about sixty inches in circumference, suspended from a nine-fathom buoy rope.
A small conical net with a three inch mesh was fixed round the lower part of the hoop. Each boat would carry up to twenty-four
such nets. The bait generally consists of cod, skate or flounder.
The fishermen started work about five o'clock in the evening, and continued until sunrise. They could cover up to twelve miles in
a night setting the nets in many different places. On some occasions, in favourable weather they could catch six or seven dozen in
a night. When the lobsters were laid in the boat, their claws were tied with cord and great care was taken to keep them away from
bilge-water, rain or the sun, which would destroy them in a few hours.
The night's fishing was deposited in large bags which remained in the sea until carried off once a week by a fish merchant or
agent. In 1846, the fishermen were paid three-and-a-half pence for each lobster, anything under eight inches was counted as half
price as well as those minus a claw. The agent placed the lobsters in boxes secured under the sea until they were up lifted by the
London smacks which were specially built for that purpose.
In a 'Guide To North Berwick' published in 1907 fishing was described as follows:- The fish generally caught about North Berwick
are haddock, codlings, whiting and flounders. When herring are in the Firth, mackerel are more or less abundant; and as the season
advances saithe and pollack take a large white fly readily enough in the evening. Mackerel is trolled for with a white lure of kid
or of gurnet skin, or even with a phantom minnow or angel. Near Craigleith, with Fidra showing to the outside of the Lamb, is good
ground for haddock; while a hundred yards or so to the east of the Lamb, and somewhat inshore of it, flounders ought to be
plentiful. By flounders is meant the common sand-dab, at its best in September. East of the harbour there is also good ground for
flounders, quite close inshore, on either side of that long disconnected ridge of black rock jutting out from the Rhodes Links,
known as the Leithies; and also in the bay between them and the Leck Moran. The best ground for the larger sized fish is off the
Bass, which however is too dangerous a trip to make in a small rowing-boat. The baits commonly used are mussels, lobworms, and
sand-eels which can be readily procured from the boat-hirers or from the fisherman.
In 1831 a razor-backed whale was stranded to the west of the town. The news of its arrival spread like wild fire and great crowds
came to visit it on the Sabbath. The town was completely inundated and the day was remembered as 'Whale Sunday'. The whale was
ultimately purchased by Dr. Knox a lecturer at Edinburgh University and exhibited in the Industrial Museum (now in Chamber Street,
Edinburgh). Again in March 1870 a shoal of whales were sighted between the Craigleith and the Bass, one was measured at 90 feet in
length but fortunately they made it safely out of the Firth.
Smuggling was at its peak during the early 1800's as taxes were high to pay for the Napoleonic Wars. According to the North Berwick
Statistical Account complied by Rev. Robert Balfour Graham, minister of St Andrews Kirk in 1839, a boat with eight coastguards was
stationed at North Berwick in the 1820s to restrict the practice of smuggling.
One particular group of smugglers who were well acquainted with each other, worked the coast between Berwickshire and Cockenzie.
They dealt mainly in French wines and brandy and legend has it that they supplied their contraband to many of the respectable
families in the district. Whisky was then scarcely known and the farmers and working class generally used malt liquors.
In putting down this trade armed skirmishes between the smugglers and Excise Officers sometimes took place. Before the widening of
the main-road to Tyninghame, a hawthorn tree, locally called 'the ganger's tree', stood at the sharp bend beyond Whitekirk, where
the side-road to Loch-houses branches off. This marked the spot where two Officers were shot dead by smugglers they were endeavouring
to arrest.
In 1857 a Coastguard Station and Custom House was constructed on Anchor Green, North Berwick and the Board of Trade established a
Rocket Brigade when twenty-two men volunteered to join. The new station linked with the Seacliff Station to the east and covered
the coast westwards as far as Leith. Seacliff, in turn linked with Dunbar and so the whole southern approach to the Forth was
covered from the shore.
The Coastguard Officers lived with their families in the Coastguard Cottages built in 1870 in Melbourne Road. All were ex-Royal
Navy, mostly Petty Officers from England. Among the names were James Davidson (1841), Alexander Bruce (1841), Joseph Lindsay (1861),
James McLean (1861), Patrick Hartnett (1881), Halbert Henderson (1881), John Sedgwick (1881), James Keys (1881), John Maheny (1881),
James Forrester (1901) Henry Thorne (1901), Joseph Kenny (1901) and Captain Thomas Woodrow.
The lifeboat crew and about two dozen launchers mustered on the firing of the signal gun sited near the Coastguard Station. The
'Rocketeers' as the members of the volunteer Rocket Brigade were known, operated a rescue rocket apparatus used from the shore to
fire a line across the bows of a stricken vessel. The apparatus was stored in the Auld Kirk porch on the Anchor Green where the
fireplace they used still remains. The apparatus was then taken by horse and cart along the main road to the nearest access point
to the vessel in trouble.
Captain Thomas Woodrow was the local agent for the Shipwrecked Fishermen and Mariners' Society at 4, Quality Street. The society was
able to offer financial assistance to the widows, orphans and parents of fishermen and mariners lost at sea. It was custom for
sailors to wear a gold earing, this was to pay for their burial if they perished at sea. The society also helped with the cost of
boarding, clothing, returning shipwrecked seamen home and other persons cast destitute on the coast.
The 'puffer' more associated with the Clyde was also a common sight on the Firth of Forth, carrying cargo of eighty to one hundred
tons up and down the east coast. They earned their name puffer from the noise the early steam engines made when their exhaust was
released into the atmosphere with a load puffing noise. They stopped puffing when condensers were fitted but the name stuck. The
closure of the Firth of Forth for security reasons during WW1 dealt a deathblow to the east coast trade. Commodities were moved by
road and rail for the duration of the conflict and the 'puffers' were never seen again.
One of the many characters at the harbour was Jackie 'Oscar' Combe who was easily recognised as he stood up while rowing his fishing
boat, a former life-boat from an ocean going liner. Born in North Berwick in 1912, Jackie rowed out to his creels at the Bass Rock
every day. Originally his boat had an engine but one day he returned to the harbour with the leg of his trousers in tatters.
Apparently his trousers caught in the drive shaft of the two stroke engine. The engine was promptly ditched and from that day
Jackie stood up-right while rowing his boat with the strength of an ox. The Kelvin engine, known as the 'Fisherman's Friend' was
developed in 1900 with a 6/8 petrol paraffin engine.
At the Burgh Magistrates Court on 14th October 1898 in front of Ballie Wilson, the following juveniles Robert Thomson, Walter Brown,
James Ferguson, David Ferguson, George Thomson, David Grant, Thomas Stephenson were found guilty of 'Malicious Mischief' in breaking
up an old boat at the harbour which belonged to George Stewart. They were each fined 5/- or 2 days in jail. Within a few years 'The
Harbour Gang' had emigrated as professional golfers to America and Europe.